Gilt leather/guadameci in Coimbra – comments on documents of the 12th and 16th centuries

Abstract

Amidst different footwear, a document of Coimbra municipality, dated from 1145, refers boots made in gilt leather/“gudemiciz”; it seems this is the first reference to gilt leather in the kingdom of Portugal, and in particular in a city recently conquered from the Muslims. In late 16th century, several documents of Coimbra University refer wall hangings, a table cover and large door frames made by a maker of gilt leather. These historic data take us into a journey of mudejar and medieval fashions where gilt leather was a part.

Entre vários tipos de calçado, as posturas municipais de Coimbra, de 1145, referem botas em couro dourado/”gudemiciz”; parece ser esta a primeira referência aos guadamecis no reino de Portugal, e em particular numa cidade recentemente reconquistada ao domínio muçulmano. Em finais do século XVI, vários documentos da Universidade de Coimbra referem cobertas de parede, coberta de mesa e guardaportas, tudo fabricado por um guadamecileiro. Esta documentação leva-nos numa viagem às modas mudéjares e medievais onde o guadameci se encontrava.